I had heard that Afghanistan is one of the most heavily mined countries in the world. I’m not talking gold mines. Back when the Russians were here fighting the Mujahaddin, they got in the habit of dropping and planting land mines and other types of mines all over the place. They probably weren’t the only ones, but they can be sure they were near the top of the list. In fact, some of those who are against the current government continue to lay down mines. Russian and other mines litter the landscape from north to south, east to west. Some areas are more heavily mined than others of course, but no place is completely safe. The rule of thumb given to me upon my arrival was: in the city you’ll be fine (both in Herat and also most areas in Kabul), but don’t go for any hikes in the country, and if you are driving in the rural areas (which we don’t advise) don’t pull off anywhere. Between the landmines and the Taliban, some places you just shouldn’t go.
Got that? Okay, now, the other day team leader L. was showing me and a few others around and had driven up a hill on the northern edge of Herat to give me a view of the city. As we rounded a corner there was this old Russian tank just 10 yards off to the side. It had not survived an attack. I asked L. to stop so I could get out and take a picture. I got out, walked up an embankment and snapped a pic and when I returned to the car I heard him telling the others that it was possible there were still some unexploded mines in that area. Well, thanks for the warning.And listen to this. Today we drove about ten miles into the countryside to a park (there were actual trees, not something you see in much of Afghanistan). I was in the SUV with L, his family, and several members of the relief team.
So I try to ask, as casually as possible, as if I have no personal stake in it, “So…I thought landmines/insurgents/rebels/Taliban/Bogieman were a problem outside the city. But I guess not where we’re going? Right?”
L.: Not in the area where we’re going. There is actually a nice park where they planted trees. We go there fairly often.
ME: So, how can you tell when an area has been cleared of mines?
L: In some places they actually scatter colored rocks or stones around to let you know. For instance, red stones mean there are still mines in an area. Blue stones mean there might be mines, but they are not sure. White stones mean they have de-mined the area.
H: (L’s 6-year-old daughter, piping up from the back seat) No, blue stones mean there are UXOs.
ME: UFOs?
H: No, UXOs.
L: (Explaining his daughter’s words) UXOs are Unexploded Ordinances.
ME: How do you know about those?
H (As if talking about this is the most natural thing in the world for a 6-year-old): I took “Mine Awareness” in school.
ME: Mine Awareness?
L (expanding on his daughter’s surprising statement): They teach all the kids in Afghanistan how to avoid mines and other explosives.
H: We learned all about that.
ME: You know, this is not the sort of conversation I have ever had with anyone, let alone a six-year-old.
H: I think kids are the wisest people.
ME: I think you are probably right about that.
